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#tailoring

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Mx Amber Alex (she/it)

Tailoring milestone: I just let out a suit jacket for the first time!

Bit nerve-wracking tbh; I undid the lining at the hem and turned the jacket left side out and the lining came apart at least another 2" from the stress. There was SO MUCH fraying inside and I let it out (centre back seam and side back seams) less than intended because I worried it might come apart if I left any less seam allowance (left about 4mm, or 0.15").

But the good news is, it fits! It's a 6x1 DB and while it nominally fit, it was so tight around the hips that the front pulled awfully at the sole button (so much that it came off earlier and I had to re-attach the button – fucking machine-sewn buttons never last).

#Sewing#Tailoring
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Sini Tuulia

During the night I pondered buttonholes and have unlocked another tier of the tech tree. Above, the rather okay and nice buttonhole I did last night. Below, the one I am working on now.
The change? My stay stitching much closer to the slit, the knots pivoted up!

Close up photo of one buttonhole, done in a gold hues variegated thread, and another one in progress. The first one is chunky and wide, but even enough. The other has stitches that are maybe half the width and have a nice ridge of knots along the top. Visually much much smaller and relatively as neat, though the tiny variation of stitch length is a larger amount of the whole stitch proportionally... But it does look more like tailored buttonholes you'd get from actual tailors, which is nice.
#Sewing#Tailoring
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Sini Tuulia

Gaze upon it!
I've had a million interruptions, but yeah. Definitely looks better! Tried it with three strands of thread for this one, and it's quite stiff in feel, but does look nicer and the jacket already feels like armour so why not. Chasing the correct colour in the gradient of the thread is a little bit interesting... 😅

A very close up photo of a rather even and substantial little tailored buttonhole sewn into the front of a jacket. It's done in gold, bronze, copper and green variegated thread, in three strands, and it's a little bit glorious. A very tiny bit! The stitches are mostly very even, only off by a millimetre at times, and they go around the eye of the buttonhole in a pleasant little swoop, the spokes of the stitches radiating out like a little sunflower. It's only half done, with loose thread hanging off it. The framework onto which it is being sewn is a tiny line of tiny black machine stitching, millimetres away from the slit edge. Sini's pale fingers holding onto the work, proclaiming this as her work.
#Sewing#Tailoring
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Sini Tuulia

The thread I'm using is absolutely not meant for this, but it's alright when doubled up, and the colour gradient is subtle enough to not offend my sensibilities. The first buttonhole is also always somewhat drunk, so the fact I got the keyhole bit that nice first go? Not terrible!
These big ones eat up so much thread, it's remarkable.

A very close up photo of a tailor's buttonhole sewn onto a wool jacket front. It's done in a gold, bronze, copper and green variegated thick sewing thread. The tiny knots of the tailor's buttonhole stitch are perfectly uniform, tidy and neat, but the part where the buttonhole extends into the bodice away from the slit wobbles a tiny bit at the start of it. The swoop of the stitch that goes down the small round hole at one end of the buttonhole is pleasantly uniform, even and neat. The stitch is a bit sparse, not all of the fabric being covered, but the knots and edge are at the perfect tensions. Sini's pale fingers holding onto the sewing, many rings glittering.
#Sewing#Tailoring
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Sini Tuulia

Some more of yesterday's sewing. Mostly I basted where the buttonholes need to go, so none of the layers shift or warp when handled. Then I went around the future buttonholes in tiny black stab stitch (Stitch names are fun, aren't they?) to secure the buttonhole site itself. I am comforted in my decision to do contrasting thread, because it's very hard to see the black thread. Can't see shit, captain etc.

A photo down the front of a jacket being sewn. There are just so very many lines of basting stitches in thick white thread across the front, surrounding the sites of future buttonholes in a sort of circle, and then just vertically and horizontally around them in straight lines. There are the very faint traces of chalked markings for the buttonholes, surrounded by nearly invisible black hand sewing. The two darts on both sides of the button area look wonderfully uniform and symmetrical, if you don't look way too closely. The drape of the substantial, wide and swooping lapel casts a pretty shadow on the front.
A very very close up photo of one of the buttonhole sites. A tiny keyhole shape has been outlined in black thread around a chalk marking. Even knowing that it's there it's a little bit hard to make out. It's reasonably tidily done and balanced in shape, and should serve as an outline to work the actual buttonhole stitches onto. Sini's pale fingertips in the frame, for scale and to make the camera realise what kind of colour temperature and exposure it should go for, as the fuzzy dark wool confuses it.
#1890sCheckJacket#Sewing#Tailoring
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Sini Tuulia

"Let me just check out the search term 'contrast buttonholes' real quick..."

Oh my god. OH MY GOD. Oh my god. Oh. What a fucking fantastic look, what the heck. Oh I need contrasting buttonholes in my life. Right? Maybe? That's so good! Mine won't be as good, but!
Edit: I wish I knew where this was from, reverse image search popped up nothing.

The close up photo of a glorious set of buttonholes and buttons on the also glorious sleeve of a men's suit jacket. It's a bright vivid indigo blue with a delicate and complex check done in woven yellow threads. This yellow has been used on the tailor's buttonholes and the buttons on the cuff and front. The dress shirt worn under the jacket has the same marigold yellow as the stripe and the buttonholes, with a faintly blue white stripe pattern alternating with the yellow. The man or person wearing the suit, from a sliver of skin visible, is probably black or Latino, or otherwise just has deep tan skin. It's a fantastic fucking combination.
#Tailoring
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TAV Creations

Major resize of a 2nd hand dress that was great in every other way for the bride.
I had to add at both the side seams and the back zipper to get the needed circumference at their ribs.
Then the illusion mesh needed to be reduced along with shortening the back button line by 4 buttons and loops.
I then had to add in some extra illusion mesh- taken from the front hem - to fill in the missing circumference where the bodice and mesh would meet and use some of the dress lace plus extra from my stash to cover the seams.
#rewear #handMeDownDress #remake #alterations #tailoring #bridal #sewing #weddingdress

Two images of an ivory wedding dress back bodice alteration. The left image is the after, where the buttons line up and the mesh is fairly smooth under lace embellishment. The right side shows the original amount the dress was not able to close, with a hand holding the sides open
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Sini Tuulia

My head feels light. 😂 To procrastinate doing anything with the sleeves next I tried it on for the first time... And it fits! It should have since I made it off a previously fitted pattern, but still! Oh gods, it's almost exactly as it should be, and the things I'd have liked to change cannot be changed at this point so here we are. 😆 (Fitting gifs.)

#1890sCheckJacket#Sewing#HistoryBounding
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Sini Tuulia

Today in #1890sCheckJacket we are saying goodbye to the fun coloured pad stitching of the collar.
I've had executive function struggles today so just this joining the lapel facing and collar together has taken me... Hours. Just tiny ladder stitch by hand.
The pattern almost matches in a pretty nice way again. I didn't even eyeball it so it's just luck and it's not exact, but I'll take it!

A slightly on the wonk framed photo of the makings of a jacket on a desk. There are no sleeves and no lining, but as both the lapels and collar are now on there, the latter only basted... It's starting to look like a real jacket. The curved collar seam is stitched in like so much rough sutures onto the lapel edge, and this goes along the line of the neck and into the back of the collar. There's some wrinkling at the back of collar inside of it, which is unfortunate but will be blocked by the neck and head, and might be still pressed and steamed into order.
Closer up photo of the fairly satisfying way the check pattern goes along the lapel and collar, despite the pieces being of completely different shape, cut on a different angle, and not even fully meeting. A dark yellow stripe sort of goes across the void of the lapel notch, and a black stripe forks off into a thicker one due to two instances of it meeting. Very much just quickly basted on here, with thick white basting thread.
The same, but now stitched and in the process of same, with thick black thread on a curved sewing needle. The very small orange tone stripe and thicker black ones meet at an angle and are not exactly matching, but only a number of millimetres from it. For a very curved and particular seam, it's pretty satisfying. Sini's pale thumb just very prominently in the frame, holding onto the bit photographed.
#Sewing#Tailoring
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Sini Tuulia

In tailoring brain worms and the #1890sCheckJacket... What I'd really like would be to have a nice thin wool wadding to pad out the hollow on the lapel left over from the thickness of the wool seam allowances at the edges only. I don't have it, only a thick kind and who knows where, but I sure do wish I had it. It's such a small area where I'd like it, too, so I'll have to see if I have anything that would do the same job.

#Tailoring#Sewing
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